Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
